Shoe-sewing machine.



A. EPPLEB..

v.SHOL SEWING MACHINE. APPLIGATION FILED MAR. 11,1912.

Patented Api'. '7, 1914 f iran armenie ANDREW EPPLER, A0F LYNN, MdSSACH'USETTS, ASSEGNOR TQ UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, 0F PTERSON, NEW JERSEY, t CQEPQFJATION 0F NEW SERSEY.

SHOE-SEYVENG MACHINE.

` ratenteaapr. v, rata.

Original annlication filed, .august 8, 1908, Serial No. 447,542. Divided and this application led March il,

i912. Serial .to. G.

To all whom t may vconcern,

Be it known that I, ANDREW EPPLER, a citizen of the United States, 'residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and Statie of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Shoe-Sewing Machines, et' which the following description, in connection with theaccompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like partsin the several figures. y

The present invention relates to inseam shoe sewing lmachines, and is intended primarily as an improvement on inseam shoe sewing machines of that class which form a.

chain-stitch and which are provided with a curved .hook needle enteringl the shoe from the outside, and with a stitch-setting take-up operating to pull the last-A formed loop 'tightly around the shank ofthe needle while the needle 'is in the work. An [example of this class ot" machine is the well-known Goodyear Welt and turn shoe sewing machine, the construction and mode of operation of which is disclosed with substantial accuracy in the patent to French and Meyer, No. 412,704. As will be obvious to those skilled in the art, however, certain 'features of the present invention are equally applicable to other types of inseam shoe sewing machines, and it is to be understood that except as defined in the claims the several features of the present invention are not limited to use in any particular type of inseam shoe sewing machine.

Machines of the type disclosedin the patent to French and Meyer above referred to are provided with a thread arm to form a loop of thread on the supply side of the work between the work and the needle so as to permit the thread to be drawn through the work by the needle without renderlng through the hook of the needle. These machines are also provided with a looper to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, and with an auxiliary spring-pressed take-up, the function of which is to take upl the slack thread during the falling movement of the main take-up and keep the thread under suflicient tension to enable the needle to be looped with certainty. lin these machines, as

`heretofore constructed, the auxiliary and main take-ups having been so arranged and operated that the auxiiiary take-up con tinues to exert a strain on the thread after the needle is looped and during vthe/tiret portion of the retracting stroke of the needle while the thread arm is y giving up thread. As a result,

the auxiliary take-up Otten exerts. sutiicient strain. on the thread to pull drawn .out'by the thread finger, and with 'this ob]ect in view a :featurel of the invention contemplates arranging and operating the main and auxiliary take-ups in such manner that the auxiliary take-up is prevented from exerting a strain on the thread during the movement of the thread arm in giving up thread to the needle and is thereby prevented fromstealing thread from the thread arm. In the preferred construction for securing this result, which construction is the simplest and most etiicient which the applicant has yet devised, a fixed stop is provided for limiting the movement of the auxiliary takeup under'the tension of its spring, and this stop is so arranged with relation to the'path of movement and time of operation otfthe main take-up that it stops the movement of the auxiliary takeup at such time as to relieve the thread from the tension exerted thereby during the thread delivering movement of the thread arm. To enable the movement of the auxiliary take-up under the force of its spring to be stopped at the desired time duringthe operation vof the machine under diierent adjustments and upon stock of dierent character and quality, the means for stopping the auxiliary take-up 'preferably has provision for adjustment.

lIn machines of the type disclosed in the patent to French and Meyer above referred to, the needle at the end of its retracting movement exerts a pull upon the thread to gti shorten the preceding loop, which loop was 1i pulled tight around the shank of the needle by the take-up when the 'needle was in the A Work. The necessity for this pull by the needle at the end ot' its retracting stroke is due to the fact that the shank of the needle is 'larger than the two strands of thread making up the loop vwhich is pulled through the work by the needle. It is desirable that the pull exerted by the needle be suiicient to shorten and tighten the preceding loop Withicertainty". regardless of the character of the material being operated upon.

The pulll which'can be exerted upon the thread bythe needle to p'roducethe best resultsy varies with, diierent kinds of stock, andan object of the resent invention is to` provide simple and e cient means whereby the needle pull can be varied as may be deture of the invention contemplates lthe pro-- needle during its retractiiig stroke.

sired. To this end a feature of the'present invention contemplates the-provision of means whereby the relative movement lot' themain and auxiliary take-ups can be adjusted to vary the amount of thread given up by the take-up to the needle during the vretracting stroke of the needle. This feavision of any suitable means wherebyl the relative movement of the take-np and auxiliary take-up can Abe adjusted t0 vary the amount 'of thread given up by the take-up to the The simplest and most efiicient wayo securing this result which the applicant has devised consists inthe provision of an adjustable stop for limiting the rising movement of the auxiliary take-up. By adjusting this stop the position of the auxiliary take-up with relation to the main take-up is changed,

and thereby the amount of slack thread given up by the take-up to the needle is varied, although, of course, the amount of thread pulled from the supply by the takelup during its rising movementremains the same, since the take-up must always pull from the supply the amount of thread con-.

` sumed in forming the preceding stitch. In

this connection it is to be noted that the adjustment of the stop which limits the falling movements of the auxiliary take-up pertnits adjustmentof the falling movement to `prevent the auxiliary take-'up from stealing t read from the thread finger under any adjustment of the stop for limiting the rising movement of the auxiliary take-up.

In the accompanying drawing illustrating the preferred form of the invention, the

yall ofw figure 1s a view in side elevation of a Welt sewing machine embodying the-invention.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is of the same general type as that illustrated in the French and Meyer patent- 412,704. The thread handling devices oi the machine comprises a curved hook needle,

anda tension device.,y "ch have the-same construction and? a looperla thread arm,

arrangementand are operated by the same mechanism as the corresponding parts of the shoe sewing machine disclosed in appli# cants pending application, Ser. No.`447,542,

tiled August 8, 1908, of which the present-.53@

These parts 'areI application is a. division.A therefore only briefly described "in-thisFap-- plication.

In the drawing-:1 indicates the'oscillatms'j 15.- curved hook needle carried by the needle Seg-f ment 2 arranged tov oseill'ate about the-' s'tm 3, l-'tlie looper, 5 the thread arm`,. 6 the Welt" guide, 7 the backrest and'8 the tension 'del vice. 1

The main takeup 'of the machine isof usualconstruction and .consists of va thread truck 9 mountedupon the forwardend of a cam actuated lever 10. The auxiliary takeup consists of a thread 4truckll'mounted upon the forward end of a pivoted arm 12. The arm 12 ofthe auxiliary take-up is pressed upon by a sprin'g'actuated plunger 13. This plunger is mounted in avertical -guidevvay in the frame of the machine, and its upper end is acted upon by a coiled spring' 14 seated in a recess in the machine frame between the upper end of the plungerl and an .auxiliary takeup is allowedto fall and maintain a tension on the thread determined by the strength of the spring 14 and the relative positions of the three .trucks. T he main take-up falls during the thread pulling movement of the thread. arm,v during the looping movements of the looper, and during the retracting stroke of the needle. To prevent the auxiliary take-up from stealing thread from the `thread arm during its loop delivery or forward stroke, and While the needle is making the first part 'of its retractino' stroke, a stop 18 is provided to limit the fa ling movement ofthe auxiliary take-up,

which stop is enga-gedby an adjustable abutment screw 19 mounted inthe lever 12 of the auxiliary take-up. The stop 18 and abutment screw 19 are so arranged With relation to the falling movement ofthe main take-up and the thread delivering stroke of the thread arm, that the falling moveped be- 'forethe thread arm-begins its'thread de-"v gltveringfstrolre. During the 'rst portion este... the ifalingzauoveaneutaefrtlte maimtakeesipfg,

ment ot the auxiliary takemp is-stop therefore, and while the needle is ybeing looped, the auxiliary take-'up exerts a tension on the thread, but. this tension is removed at such time as to prevent any liability of the stealing of thread from the thread arm.

The main take-up of the machine illustrated in the drawing acts in the same manner as that of the machine of the French and l casioned by differences Meyer Patent No. 412,704. to pull off thread from the supply during its upward stroke and to give up this'thread tothe needle during its falling stroke to such an extent that the needle will exert a pull on the preceding loop ofthe seam and shorten this loop. To secure a variation of the pull exerted by the needle on the thread in shortening the preceding loop, the machine illustrated in the drawings is provided with an adjustable stop for limiting the rising movement of the auxiliary take-up, this .stop being indicated 'at 20 and consisting of an adjustable screw threaded abutment screw mounted in the frame of the machine. An adjustment of the stop 2O will vary the amount of thread Vextendingl `from the looper around the main and auxiliary take-ups to the truck 17, and consequently will vary the amount of thread given up by the .take-up during the falling movement to the needle. An adjustment oi'- the stop 20 will obviously vary the ltime in the operation of the machine vat which the abutment 19 of the auxiliary take-up will hit the stop 18 during the falling movement of the auxiliary take-up. The abutment 19 is, therefore, made adjustable so that the falling movement of the auxiliary take-up can be stopped at the -desired time in the operation of the machine under any adjustment of the stop 20. This adjustment of the abutment 19 of the. auxiliary take-up also permits an adjustment for variation in the operation of the stitch forming devices oc- Iin the liindl of stock operated upon.r

It is to be understood that the invention .is not limited to the details of construction and operation of the illustrated embodiment but the invention may be embodied in other forms /within the scope ofthe claims.

The nature and object of the invention having beeng explained and a machine embodying the preferred form thereof having been speci cally described, what is claimed is: 1. A am stitch slice sewing machine ha-ving, in combination, a hook needle, a

looper, a thread arm, a vtake-up, a springpressed auxiliary take-up, and means having provision for adjustment for stopping the movement of the auxiliary take-up under the :torce of its spring t-o prevent the auxiliary take-up from stealing thread from the thread arm.

Q. A chain stitch shoe y sewing machine .having, in combination, a hook needle, a

looper, a take-up, an auxiliary take-up, and meansfor adjusting the amount of thread given up by the take-up to the needle to vary the pull exerted upon the thread by the needle in tightening the'preceding loop. f.

3. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a

looper, a take-up, a rising and falling springpressed auxiliary take-up, and a stop to limit the rising movement of the auxiliary takeup having provision for adjustment to vary the amount of thread given up by the takejusting the relative movement of the take-up and auxiliary take-up to vary the amount of thread given up by the take-up to the needle and thereby vary the pull" exerted upon the thread; by the needle in tighteningV the preceding loop.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence oi' two subscribing witnesses.

ANDREW EPPLER.

lVitnessesz' CHESTER E. ROGERS, LAURA M. Goonnmen.

vup to the needleand thereby vary thepull 

